When driving along the highway out in the country often all you will see is open land with a simple wire fence marking the boundary line.
I may do a series of fence line scenes with the different things found behind a fence; pastureland, farmland, marsh, forest, etc.
If you would like more information about ACEO please go to my post on 11 March 2010.
The ACEO shown is an original watercolour painting using Artist quality Windsor & Newton paint on 300lb. Arches 100% rag, acid free watercolour paper. It is priced at $20.00 and sold unframed.
Thank you for looking at my artwork.
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Monday, January 30, 2012
Snow Flurries 1 and 2 - Two Works in Progress
Today is going to be a fairly busy day. I have the Executive meeting at KAGS today and afterward Christine and I are taking our respective husbands out for their birthday supper.
Snow Flurries 1
I also wanted to paint today; so using Antwerp blue and alizarin crimson I streaked in some colour on two pieces of paper and sprinkled salt into them before I had to leave.
Snow Flurries 2
When I returned home this was the result. Now I just have to decide what I would like to paint into them.
Snow Flurries 1
I also wanted to paint today; so using Antwerp blue and alizarin crimson I streaked in some colour on two pieces of paper and sprinkled salt into them before I had to leave.
Snow Flurries 2
When I returned home this was the result. Now I just have to decide what I would like to paint into them.
Sunday, January 29, 2012
Colour and Composition 5-7 - Three Works in Progress
Last year Neil Broadfoot taught a class in colour and composition. Each day he gave us exercises to help us develop our skills using the primary colours.
Colour and Composition 5
Then we made the secondary colours using various combinations of the primary colours; and to develop compositions using colour, size and shapes.
Colour and Composition 6
The last one was to help us develop our creative skills.
It consisted of making seven similar pieces and create different paintings from each of them.
Colour and Composition 7
Colour and Composition 5
Then we made the secondary colours using various combinations of the primary colours; and to develop compositions using colour, size and shapes.
Colour and Composition 6
The last one was to help us develop our creative skills.
It consisted of making seven similar pieces and create different paintings from each of them.
Colour and Composition 7
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Taking a Bribe - A Work in Progress
This is a sketch that I have been working on about one of the many ways to catch a horse out in a large field.
I was always fortunate that with any of my horses all I had to do was call their names and they came to me. But it certainly doesn't hurt to offer a bribe for good behaviour.
I will post this painting at a later date once I have transferred the drawing to the watercolour paper.
Thank you for taking the time to visit my blog and enjoy the artwork. I hope you will return often.
I was always fortunate that with any of my horses all I had to do was call their names and they came to me. But it certainly doesn't hurt to offer a bribe for good behaviour.
I will post this painting at a later date once I have transferred the drawing to the watercolour paper.
Thank you for taking the time to visit my blog and enjoy the artwork. I hope you will return often.
Labels:
equine art,
horse art,
horse portraits,
Susan Sydney,
watercolour
Friday, January 27, 2012
Mailbox I
Mailboxes are often found along country roads and they can be in many different shapes and sizes.
Depending how close the houses are together you may see only one at the end of each driveway, or where there are a number of homes on a Fire Route or on a private road there could be a lot of them sitting one beside the other.
Mailbox 1 is an original 3" x 5" matted and shrink wrapped pen and ink drawing available for $30.00.
Depending how close the houses are together you may see only one at the end of each driveway, or where there are a number of homes on a Fire Route or on a private road there could be a lot of them sitting one beside the other.
Mailbox 1 is an original 3" x 5" matted and shrink wrapped pen and ink drawing available for $30.00.
Labels:
black and white,
mailbox,
pen and ink,
still life,
Susan Sydney
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Sunrise Seagulls - A Work in Progress
While going through some canvases that had been started I came across this painting called Sunrise on the Lake (see posting on 25 Jul 2010).
I have decided to change the name to Sunrise Seagulls and turn it into a painting of the Caribbean, namely the eastern shore of Aruba.
I have indicated where I will change the shape of the rocks to look like the cliffs and have drawn in where I will have the waves coming in toward the shore.
I will post this painting once I have painted in the water and then will figure out where I will place the seagulls.
I have decided to change the name to Sunrise Seagulls and turn it into a painting of the Caribbean, namely the eastern shore of Aruba.
I have indicated where I will change the shape of the rocks to look like the cliffs and have drawn in where I will have the waves coming in toward the shore.
I will post this painting once I have painted in the water and then will figure out where I will place the seagulls.
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Tassy and Tracker
At this point I look for any slight smudges that may have occurred during the course of layering in all the details and remove them with a white eraser.
After signing the painting I like to spray a final light layer of fixative over the surface to prevent any of the graphite moving from where it has been placed.
I hope you have enjoyed seeing the way I work on dog head studies from the original sketch through to the completed drawing.
I would like to thank Ms. Mary Ellen Lomax of Bowmanville, Ontario for commissioning me to do this original 11" x 14" framed graphite pencil drawing.
Thank you for taking the time to look at my artwork and I hope you will return often.
After signing the painting I like to spray a final light layer of fixative over the surface to prevent any of the graphite moving from where it has been placed.
I hope you have enjoyed seeing the way I work on dog head studies from the original sketch through to the completed drawing.
I would like to thank Ms. Mary Ellen Lomax of Bowmanville, Ontario for commissioning me to do this original 11" x 14" framed graphite pencil drawing.
Thank you for taking the time to look at my artwork and I hope you will return often.
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Markings
Now that I have completed Tracker's head it is time to put the markings on Tassy.
This is the time consuming part and a lot of care must be taken as it is very easy to get lost in the placement of the markings.
I started by lightly indicating the masses of freckles at the front of the neck and the direction of the hair whorls.
There was also an almost circular spot where the solid markings of the neck met the freckled mass which I put in as another marker.
Gradually more of the freckles were put into the neck following the direction of the hair.
Care was taken to follow the size and shape of some of the larger spots on the neck and top of the shoulder.
Once the markings were finished I lightly added in a little shadow to the white areas to indicate the muscle mass in the shoulder.
This is the time consuming part and a lot of care must be taken as it is very easy to get lost in the placement of the markings.
I started by lightly indicating the masses of freckles at the front of the neck and the direction of the hair whorls.
There was also an almost circular spot where the solid markings of the neck met the freckled mass which I put in as another marker.
Gradually more of the freckles were put into the neck following the direction of the hair.
Care was taken to follow the size and shape of some of the larger spots on the neck and top of the shoulder.
Once the markings were finished I lightly added in a little shadow to the white areas to indicate the muscle mass in the shoulder.
Monday, January 23, 2012
Stained Glass
Today I painted with the Lakefield Creative Arts Guild and discussed the upcoming plans to hold an art show and tea in June. There are many things yet to be worked out including the date which I will post as soon as I know.
I decided that I wanted to do more work on this abstract I had started a while ago (see posts on 13 April 10, 15 April 10 and 18 January 11) and get it completed.
I added a thin line of blue to the left side of the white area and decided that the white bar needed to be toned down slightly. I used a wash of pale blue and then added a hint of alizarin crimson.
Then I added a few more bars, dots and small shapes to the painting in burnt sienna and in various dark mixtures to complete the painting.
Stained Glass is an original 11" x 15” watercolour and will be available when framed for $395.00.
Thank you for taking the time to visit my blog and look at the artwork.
I decided that I wanted to do more work on this abstract I had started a while ago (see posts on 13 April 10, 15 April 10 and 18 January 11) and get it completed.
I added a thin line of blue to the left side of the white area and decided that the white bar needed to be toned down slightly. I used a wash of pale blue and then added a hint of alizarin crimson.
Then I added a few more bars, dots and small shapes to the painting in burnt sienna and in various dark mixtures to complete the painting.
Stained Glass is an original 11" x 15” watercolour and will be available when framed for $395.00.
Thank you for taking the time to visit my blog and look at the artwork.
Labels:
abstracts,
demonstration,
Susan Sydney,
watercolour
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Rocks and Water 1 - A Work in Progress
Today I just felt like experimenting with sponges and the palette knife to create tress and rocks.
I washed in the sky, added some trees with a sponge. Then using darker paint I put in the colour for the rocks and the water.
As the paint dried slightly I went in and moved the paint with the palette knife to create some rock shapes.
I will post this painting at a later date after it is completed.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Muzzle
For the most part the cheek area is put in with short vertical strokes.
It is an almost flat surface except at the bottom where it meets the lower jaw and curves slightly.
Once the cheek had been completed I marked in the muscle mass at the bottom of the jaw, the placement of the veins in the muzzle and the edge of the dark markings. Tracker is almost finished at this point.
The muscles in the lower jaw are given shape and the dark area of the muzzle it filled in using a mixture of straight and curved lines.
The small dots where the whiskers appear are darkened slightly and the shadow around them is given a little more definition.
It is an almost flat surface except at the bottom where it meets the lower jaw and curves slightly.
Once the cheek had been completed I marked in the muscle mass at the bottom of the jaw, the placement of the veins in the muzzle and the edge of the dark markings. Tracker is almost finished at this point.
The muscles in the lower jaw are given shape and the dark area of the muzzle it filled in using a mixture of straight and curved lines.
The small dots where the whiskers appear are darkened slightly and the shadow around them is given a little more definition.
Friday, January 20, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Nose
Last time I was working on this piece I was not happy with the placement of the nostrils. Rather than work on the painting and make a number of changes and having to erase and rework the drawing which could make a mess beyond being able to repair it, I reworked the nose on a piece of tracing paper.
At this stage I certainly didn't want to end up having to start the entire painting over from scratch.
Finally I was pleased with the nose and transferred the drawing to the paper.
Once again I started with the nostrils, outlining the darkest lines in first as a guide and then worked the lighter areas gradually darkened them.
Once the nostrils were complete I started on the front flat part of the nose which by adding in the shading gives definition to the outer edges of the nostril.
Before I started on the upper part of the nose I lightly added a layer of graphite down the bridge of the nose to set the shape as well as at the base of the nasal bone just above the depression to use as a marker.
I darkened in the back part of the nostril and the bottom edge of the nose and then I added a little shading over the top of the nostrils.
Working below the nose I shaded in the upper lip and lightly indicated the whiskers, which show as the small dots on the flew (upper lip).
Going back to the stop I worked down the bridge of the nose and put the shadows in for the depression under the bottom of the nasal bone.I then completed the upper part of the nose, added more shadows to the side of the nose and beneath it.
The dotted lines of the whiskers were put in and a little more shading was put on the muzzle with curved lines to create the illusion of roundness. Then the upper lip was darkened and the edge of the lips were given more shape and shadows until they were completed.
The jaw line was given a little more definition and the shadows in front of the ear were strengthened. The top edge of the jaw was filled in as was the area below the eye and along the sharp edge of the cheek.
At this stage I certainly didn't want to end up having to start the entire painting over from scratch.
Finally I was pleased with the nose and transferred the drawing to the paper.
Once again I started with the nostrils, outlining the darkest lines in first as a guide and then worked the lighter areas gradually darkened them.
Once the nostrils were complete I started on the front flat part of the nose which by adding in the shading gives definition to the outer edges of the nostril.
Before I started on the upper part of the nose I lightly added a layer of graphite down the bridge of the nose to set the shape as well as at the base of the nasal bone just above the depression to use as a marker.
I darkened in the back part of the nostril and the bottom edge of the nose and then I added a little shading over the top of the nostrils.
Working below the nose I shaded in the upper lip and lightly indicated the whiskers, which show as the small dots on the flew (upper lip).
Going back to the stop I worked down the bridge of the nose and put the shadows in for the depression under the bottom of the nasal bone.I then completed the upper part of the nose, added more shadows to the side of the nose and beneath it.
The dotted lines of the whiskers were put in and a little more shading was put on the muzzle with curved lines to create the illusion of roundness. Then the upper lip was darkened and the edge of the lips were given more shape and shadows until they were completed.
The jaw line was given a little more definition and the shadows in front of the ear were strengthened. The top edge of the jaw was filled in as was the area below the eye and along the sharp edge of the cheek.
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Sewing Machine - A Work in Progress
Today's theme for the still life class at KAGS is sewing.
We had a large selection of items to paint including one of the old style Singer sewing machines, bobbins, spools of thread, bolts of cloth, an oil can for the sewing machine and a blouse just waiting to be finished.
I chose one small section of the items available but I may do another at a later date. I will post this painting once I have completed it.
We had a large selection of items to paint including one of the old style Singer sewing machines, bobbins, spools of thread, bolts of cloth, an oil can for the sewing machine and a blouse just waiting to be finished.
I chose one small section of the items available but I may do another at a later date. I will post this painting once I have completed it.
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
OSWOA - Evening Forest 4
Often after a very hot and humid day once the sun starts to set the temperature drops rapidly causing a fog to rise over any water surface.
If you would like more information about OSWOA please go to my post on 12 March 2010.
The OSWOA shown here is an original watercolour painting using Artist quality Windsor & Newton paint on 140lb. Arches 100% rag, acid free watercolour paper. It is priced at $40.00 and sold unframed.
If you would like more information about OSWOA please go to my post on 12 March 2010.
The OSWOA shown here is an original watercolour painting using Artist quality Windsor & Newton paint on 140lb. Arches 100% rag, acid free watercolour paper. It is priced at $40.00 and sold unframed.
Labels:
miniature paintings,
originals,
OSWOA,
small works,
Susan Sydney,
watercolour
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
ACEO - Poetry 1
Today I wanted to do something with a little colour so I chose to do an autumn scene.
This is a spit of land on Chemong Lake. What I liked about it was the white birches standing out against the bright coloured maple trees and the contrast between them and the tress that had already lost all their leaves.
If you would like more information about ACEO please go to my post on 11 March 2010.
The ACEO shown here is an original watercolour painting using Artist quality Windsor & Newton paint on 300lb. Arches 100% rag, acid free watercolour paper. It is priced at $20.00 and sold unframed.
This is a spit of land on Chemong Lake. What I liked about it was the white birches standing out against the bright coloured maple trees and the contrast between them and the tress that had already lost all their leaves.
If you would like more information about ACEO please go to my post on 11 March 2010.
The ACEO shown here is an original watercolour painting using Artist quality Windsor & Newton paint on 300lb. Arches 100% rag, acid free watercolour paper. It is priced at $20.00 and sold unframed.
Monday, January 16, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Ear and Brow
Now I am going to finish the ear; working from the front edge of the ear leather back towards the first fold which is about the middle of the ear.
Working in the darkest areas first I gradually build up layers of graphite in the shadows and shading to give definition to the way the ear leather folds.
There will only one or two layers of graphite in the lightest areas.
Then I complete the back part of the ear in the same manner until the entire ear is complete.
I worked a little on the nostrils of the nose and put a little shading under them, but I am not happy with the placement and will need to rework that later.
Going back up to the top of the skull I lightly filled in the area to join both side of the skull as a starting point to be sure the tone is the same value.
From there I once again started in the darkest area using for the most part lines bent in the direction the areas curve to help create the illusion of roundness.
Once I reach the eye orb I take care to define the shadow above the eyelid and to place the high light on the lid itself so it looks as though there is a depression behind the lid.
Working in the darkest areas first I gradually build up layers of graphite in the shadows and shading to give definition to the way the ear leather folds.
There will only one or two layers of graphite in the lightest areas.
Then I complete the back part of the ear in the same manner until the entire ear is complete.
I worked a little on the nostrils of the nose and put a little shading under them, but I am not happy with the placement and will need to rework that later.
Going back up to the top of the skull I lightly filled in the area to join both side of the skull as a starting point to be sure the tone is the same value.
From there I once again started in the darkest area using for the most part lines bent in the direction the areas curve to help create the illusion of roundness.
Once I reach the eye orb I take care to define the shadow above the eyelid and to place the high light on the lid itself so it looks as though there is a depression behind the lid.
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer -First Stage
I am going to start on the other dog and get most of the head completed before I do the markings on the first one.
I like to start with the high lit edge of the ear and get a little shadow and shape under the top fold. Then mark in the lines for the folds on the ear leather and put in a little contrast to establish a difference from the bottom of the ear flap of the second dog from the profile of the first one.
Then I added a little shading to indicate the brow lines over the eyes before moving on to the ear on the other side of the head.
Working over the top side of the skull to the center of the head and adding some shadows to create the illusion of a rounded shape.
The area around the far eye is given definition and shape, before working down to the chin and putting in a little shadow from the upper lip.
Since the second dog is mainly white in colour I put in the shadings on the body to indicate the muscle mass of the shoulder and some of the shadows in the throat. I also added the few markings the dog has on the neck.
Next I finished the area above the far eye, adding more shading and details.
Then back to working on the ear I brought the shadow down the length of the front edge of the ear and gave some definition to the bottom of the cheek.
From there I added more shading at the bottom of the ear leather and defined the shadow behind the front edge of the ear.
I started adding shape to the fold on the ear leather, gradually adding dark against the highlights and creating the illusion of a third dimension in the painting.
I always find it a good idea to take a step back from the piece I am working on and look at the entire painting and make sure it is balanced.
Otherwise by being too focused on the small area I am working on it is easy to lose sight of the entire piece.
Thank you for coming to look at my artwork.
I like to start with the high lit edge of the ear and get a little shadow and shape under the top fold. Then mark in the lines for the folds on the ear leather and put in a little contrast to establish a difference from the bottom of the ear flap of the second dog from the profile of the first one.
Then I added a little shading to indicate the brow lines over the eyes before moving on to the ear on the other side of the head.
Working over the top side of the skull to the center of the head and adding some shadows to create the illusion of a rounded shape.
The area around the far eye is given definition and shape, before working down to the chin and putting in a little shadow from the upper lip.
Since the second dog is mainly white in colour I put in the shadings on the body to indicate the muscle mass of the shoulder and some of the shadows in the throat. I also added the few markings the dog has on the neck.
Next I finished the area above the far eye, adding more shading and details.
Then back to working on the ear I brought the shadow down the length of the front edge of the ear and gave some definition to the bottom of the cheek.
From there I added more shading at the bottom of the ear leather and defined the shadow behind the front edge of the ear.
I started adding shape to the fold on the ear leather, gradually adding dark against the highlights and creating the illusion of a third dimension in the painting.
I always find it a good idea to take a step back from the piece I am working on and look at the entire painting and make sure it is balanced.
Otherwise by being too focused on the small area I am working on it is easy to lose sight of the entire piece.
Thank you for coming to look at my artwork.
Saturday, January 14, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Muzzle
After lightly sketching in areas of dark shadow and the highlights as well as the centre line on the bridge of the nose I began adding the shading to the lower part of the head.
The painting was working so well I lost track of time and forgot to stop and take photographs after I had finished the jaws, bridge of the nose and muzzle. I will try and make sure I stop to take the photographs when working on the other dog's head.
I still have to put all the markings on this dog, but I will do that later.
I still have to put all the markings on this dog, but I will do that later.
Friday, January 13, 2012
Sunset Silhouette 3
This is the third original 4" x 4" acrylic painting and is available for $65.00.
The other two are Sunset Silhouette 1 (see posting on 27 December 12) and Sunset Silhouette 2 (see my post on 19 December 11).
You are welcome to come out and see all three together at the Miniature Squared Show which will open at KAGS this Saturday and will run through to 02 February 12.
The other two are Sunset Silhouette 1 (see posting on 27 December 12) and Sunset Silhouette 2 (see my post on 19 December 11).
You are welcome to come out and see all three together at the Miniature Squared Show which will open at KAGS this Saturday and will run through to 02 February 12.
Labels:
acrylic,
equine art,
horse art,
miniature paintings,
silhouettes,
sunset,
Susan Sydney
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Wine Bottles and Glasses - A Work in Progress
Today we held the first Still Life class at KAGS.
We had two different arrangements, one of vases and bowls with Chinese lantern plants; the other of wine bottles and glasses.
I will post this sketch once I have it completed.
We had two different arrangements, one of vases and bowls with Chinese lantern plants; the other of wine bottles and glasses.
I chose to do the wine bottles and glasses.
At break the members discussed what direction we would like to go with the still life class and decided that rather than stick with traditional still life themes we go with a variety of interest themes. So over the course of the rest of the winter and spring we will be doing just that.
Labels:
black and white,
graphite pencil,
still life,
Susan Sydney,
wine bottles
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Top of Head
Now it is time to get the top of the skull finished and work my way down towards the muzzle.
The first thing I filled in was the small area above the eye. It has a fair amount of high lit areas and the layers of graphite were gradually built up to blend with the surrounding area.
I then worked on finishing the solid marking at the back of the neck and below the ear; darkening the area for the shadows and using curved lines to create the illusion of roundness. Later I will put all the freckles into the coat.
Going back to the area between the eyes the shadows and highlights were slowly working in down and across the bridge of the nose to just below the stop between the eyes.
Working above the sharp edge of the cheek bone, the flat section of the cheek was put in and the shadow area below was joined to complete the front edge of the cheek bone.
The area below the eye was then filled in and some of the small veins which are close to the surface of the skin just above the cheek bone were given a little definition. I then put in the shadow beneath another of the veins just below the front edge of the cheek and across the top of the muzzle.
More detail was added to the corner of the mouth, shadowing was added along the bottom of the jaw and the hollow in the cheek where the tendons run where given a little more definition.
Thank you for taking the time to visit my blog and look at the artwork. I hope you will return often.
The first thing I filled in was the small area above the eye. It has a fair amount of high lit areas and the layers of graphite were gradually built up to blend with the surrounding area.
I then worked on finishing the solid marking at the back of the neck and below the ear; darkening the area for the shadows and using curved lines to create the illusion of roundness. Later I will put all the freckles into the coat.
Going back to the area between the eyes the shadows and highlights were slowly working in down and across the bridge of the nose to just below the stop between the eyes.
Working above the sharp edge of the cheek bone, the flat section of the cheek was put in and the shadow area below was joined to complete the front edge of the cheek bone.
The area below the eye was then filled in and some of the small veins which are close to the surface of the skin just above the cheek bone were given a little definition. I then put in the shadow beneath another of the veins just below the front edge of the cheek and across the top of the muzzle.
More detail was added to the corner of the mouth, shadowing was added along the bottom of the jaw and the hollow in the cheek where the tendons run where given a little more definition.
Thank you for taking the time to visit my blog and look at the artwork. I hope you will return often.
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Eye Lid and Cheek
I wanted to get the eye lids and area around the eye completed today but just couldn't get started. So I added some shading down the front of the neck and worked on putting in the markings on the shoulder.
It is time consuming to get each of the markings in its exact location on the body and on this dog there are a lot of small freckles yet to be done.
I moved upward and rounded the bottom of the cheek slightly and darkened the shadow beneath the jaw giving it a more defined outline.
Working below the sharp edge of the cheek bone I added more shading and indicated areas of highlight.
I did a little more work at the top of the skull and added more shading before I finally started to work on the eye lid and the area around the eye.
The first thing I put in is the tear duct in the corner of the eye and lightly indicate the skin surrounding it. Once that is in place it acts as a guide for the lower eye lid.
The upper eye lid is drawn and the shadow put into the bottom and in the crease. The highlight on the top edge of the eye lid gradually darkens towards the far side of the lid.
The furrows above the eye lid are gradually drawn in and defined.
It is time consuming to get each of the markings in its exact location on the body and on this dog there are a lot of small freckles yet to be done.
I moved upward and rounded the bottom of the cheek slightly and darkened the shadow beneath the jaw giving it a more defined outline.
Working below the sharp edge of the cheek bone I added more shading and indicated areas of highlight.
I did a little more work at the top of the skull and added more shading before I finally started to work on the eye lid and the area around the eye.
The first thing I put in is the tear duct in the corner of the eye and lightly indicate the skin surrounding it. Once that is in place it acts as a guide for the lower eye lid.
The upper eye lid is drawn and the shadow put into the bottom and in the crease. The highlight on the top edge of the eye lid gradually darkens towards the far side of the lid.
The furrows above the eye lid are gradually drawn in and defined.
Monday, January 9, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Nose
The next area to be put in is the nose. This acts as a reference for the centre line of the face.
I start by placing a small, light shadow to use as a guide where the bridge of the nose and the top portion of the muzzle meet.
The centre line which divides the two halves of the flat front portion of the nose between the nostrils is put in first and the top edge of the nose pad is darkened.
The curved lines on the top of the nose are shaded in the direction of the nose as it goes along the bridge of the nose.
The shadow under the flap of skin below the nostril is put in which gives it its shape.
The lower edge of the upper lip is strengthened and given a more definite shape. The shadow under the lip is darkened to give a little depth.
The area of the muzzle below the nose is given shape and the whisker lines are indicated.
I then start working my way back up the bridge of the nose giving more shape and confirming the existing lines with a soft line of graphite.
Working with the lines following the curve of the skull I add in shading in front of the ear, gradually building layers of graphite.
The leading edge of the ear flap shows more clearly against the shadows beneath it which seems to push it forward.
The lines on the cheek are put in vertically to indicate the flatness
of the area as opposed to the roundness of the skull.
Next I go back and darken the area around the far eye adding in the furrows above the eye and a little more shadow under the far side ear flap.
As you can see so far other than putting the eyes in on the other dog nothing has been done with him, yet.
I start by placing a small, light shadow to use as a guide where the bridge of the nose and the top portion of the muzzle meet.
The centre line which divides the two halves of the flat front portion of the nose between the nostrils is put in first and the top edge of the nose pad is darkened.
The curved lines on the top of the nose are shaded in the direction of the nose as it goes along the bridge of the nose.
The shadow under the flap of skin below the nostril is put in which gives it its shape.
The lower edge of the upper lip is strengthened and given a more definite shape. The shadow under the lip is darkened to give a little depth.
The area of the muzzle below the nose is given shape and the whisker lines are indicated.
I then start working my way back up the bridge of the nose giving more shape and confirming the existing lines with a soft line of graphite.
Working with the lines following the curve of the skull I add in shading in front of the ear, gradually building layers of graphite.
The leading edge of the ear flap shows more clearly against the shadows beneath it which seems to push it forward.
The lines on the cheek are put in vertically to indicate the flatness
of the area as opposed to the roundness of the skull.
Next I go back and darken the area around the far eye adding in the furrows above the eye and a little more shadow under the far side ear flap.
As you can see so far other than putting the eyes in on the other dog nothing has been done with him, yet.
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Ears
Once the eyes have been completed, the next step is to start with the ears.
With the light coming from the upper left hand side of the picture, I like to indicate the highlight areas and lightly define the top of the head and the edge of the ear flap.
The shadow cast by the ear flap and below the jaw is lightly indicated on the neck and I added a few of her markings. The shadow cast by the ear folds are put in for reference with the dark areas marked in lightly. I also added a little definition to one of the nostrils.
Much of the ear is still left with the white of the paper showing. It is easier to add more dark gradually than to try and remove a dark shadow in the wrong place.
The top edge of the ear is given more definition and more of the shadows in the ear folds are indicated. The top of the ear gradually takes shape as more layers of graphite are slowly built up creating depth.
Gradually the shadows and shadings are added with the lightest of the highlights still being the white of the paper.
With the first ear completed it was time to work on the little bit of the far ear that shows. The base of this ear defines the shape of the skull above the other eye.
I then worked on the far eye and started the area around it.
Thank you for taking the time to visit my blog and enjoy the artwork.
With the light coming from the upper left hand side of the picture, I like to indicate the highlight areas and lightly define the top of the head and the edge of the ear flap.
The shadow cast by the ear flap and below the jaw is lightly indicated on the neck and I added a few of her markings. The shadow cast by the ear folds are put in for reference with the dark areas marked in lightly. I also added a little definition to one of the nostrils.
Much of the ear is still left with the white of the paper showing. It is easier to add more dark gradually than to try and remove a dark shadow in the wrong place.
The top edge of the ear is given more definition and more of the shadows in the ear folds are indicated. The top of the ear gradually takes shape as more layers of graphite are slowly built up creating depth.
Gradually the shadows and shadings are added with the lightest of the highlights still being the white of the paper.
With the first ear completed it was time to work on the little bit of the far ear that shows. The base of this ear defines the shape of the skull above the other eye.
I then worked on the far eye and started the area around it.
Thank you for taking the time to visit my blog and enjoy the artwork.
Saturday, January 7, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Eyes
The most important part of an animal portrait is to get the eyes correct.
If the eye isn't right, no matter how well the rest of the painting is, there is something not believable about it. This is why I do the eyes almost always at the very beginning of the painting.
I marked in the upper corner of my paper the direction of the light source. This is the easiest way to keep the highlights on both dogs in the same direction. I did Tassy's eye first.
From the highlight in the eye to the bottom there is reflected light within the eye (for a more detailed explanation see my posting on 07 August 2011).
The irises on both dogs are a lighter brown than what is called for in the breed standards for some of the other dog breeds which require very dark eyes.
Then I worked on Tracker's eyes being sure that the tops of the eye lids were on the same angle as the rest of the head.
Note the difference in the shape of the eyes. You have to be careful to get the position and shape of the eye and have it correct for the angle of the head.
If the eye isn't right, no matter how well the rest of the painting is, there is something not believable about it. This is why I do the eyes almost always at the very beginning of the painting.
I marked in the upper corner of my paper the direction of the light source. This is the easiest way to keep the highlights on both dogs in the same direction. I did Tassy's eye first.
From the highlight in the eye to the bottom there is reflected light within the eye (for a more detailed explanation see my posting on 07 August 2011).
The irises on both dogs are a lighter brown than what is called for in the breed standards for some of the other dog breeds which require very dark eyes.
Then I worked on Tracker's eyes being sure that the tops of the eye lids were on the same angle as the rest of the head.
Note the difference in the shape of the eyes. You have to be careful to get the position and shape of the eye and have it correct for the angle of the head.
Friday, January 6, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Final Drawing
The nice thing about using tracing paper for my drawings is that I can easily do the final drawing in the reverse.
Looking at any drawing in the reverse whether you take the main lines like I do or look at your sketch in a mirror, or even turn it upside down; it gives you a different perspective of the image and allows you to see anything that looks out of place quite quickly.
The added advantage is that all my final lines are darkened and ready to transfer to my drawing paper; without my having to do it a second time or darken the back of my outline drawing.
I have found that "scribbling" over the back of the drawing with a softer pencil and then transferring the drawing often leaves a lot of loose graphite on the good paper which can be smeared and create a mess.
As you can see each dog was drawn on a separate piece of paper. It is here that I decide where the best position is to have the dogs overlapping each other to create interest instead of having them separated with a space between them. The two drawings are taped together so they don't move.
Then two small pieces of low tack tape is used to hold the drawing in place on the acid free paper while the outline is transferred to down. That way the image doesn't shift which is time consuming to correct and often causes damage to the fine paper.
Looking at any drawing in the reverse whether you take the main lines like I do or look at your sketch in a mirror, or even turn it upside down; it gives you a different perspective of the image and allows you to see anything that looks out of place quite quickly.
The added advantage is that all my final lines are darkened and ready to transfer to my drawing paper; without my having to do it a second time or darken the back of my outline drawing.
I have found that "scribbling" over the back of the drawing with a softer pencil and then transferring the drawing often leaves a lot of loose graphite on the good paper which can be smeared and create a mess.
As you can see each dog was drawn on a separate piece of paper. It is here that I decide where the best position is to have the dogs overlapping each other to create interest instead of having them separated with a space between them. The two drawings are taped together so they don't move.
Then two small pieces of low tack tape is used to hold the drawing in place on the acid free paper while the outline is transferred to down. That way the image doesn't shift which is time consuming to correct and often causes damage to the fine paper.
Thursday, January 5, 2012
Drawing the German Shorthaired Pointer - Outline Sketch
Almost all of my drawings are done on tracing paper. I don't use an eraser on my sketches preferring to work the lines until they are correct.
When the sketch gets too messy I use another piece of tracing paper, take the "good" lines and continue working on the drawing.
The major shapes of the head are indicated first as basic shapes. I prefer to use triangles, squares and rectangles and round the corners off rather than use circles and join the pieces with lines. Each person needs to find which way works best for them.
Then angles are lightly blocked in to give a three dimensional effect which also makes both sides of the head balance in perspective. That way one eye doesn't end up higher than the other or the nose isn't quite where it should be.
From there the drawing is gradually refined to show the folds on the ears, the roundness on the top of the skull, the sharp plane on the top of the cheeks and the curve at the bottom. Details are added to the nose and eyes being very sure that they are in the correct place and at the proper angle.
Once I am reasonably happy with the outline sketch it is time to work on the final drawing which will be transferred to the acid free drawing paper.
Thank you for coming to look at my artwork and I hope you will return often.
When the sketch gets too messy I use another piece of tracing paper, take the "good" lines and continue working on the drawing.
The major shapes of the head are indicated first as basic shapes. I prefer to use triangles, squares and rectangles and round the corners off rather than use circles and join the pieces with lines. Each person needs to find which way works best for them.
Then angles are lightly blocked in to give a three dimensional effect which also makes both sides of the head balance in perspective. That way one eye doesn't end up higher than the other or the nose isn't quite where it should be.
From there the drawing is gradually refined to show the folds on the ears, the roundness on the top of the skull, the sharp plane on the top of the cheeks and the curve at the bottom. Details are added to the nose and eyes being very sure that they are in the correct place and at the proper angle.
Once I am reasonably happy with the outline sketch it is time to work on the final drawing which will be transferred to the acid free drawing paper.
Thank you for coming to look at my artwork and I hope you will return often.
Wednesday, January 4, 2012
OSWOA - Setting Sun I
This is another painting I started while in Magnetawan with the Outdoor Painters' Group in October.
If you would like more information about OSWOA please go to my post on 12 March 2010.
If you would like more information about OSWOA please go to my post on 12 March 2010.
The OSWOA shown here is an original watercolour painting using Artist quality Windsor & Newton paint on 300lb. Arches 100% rag, acid free watercolour paper. It is priced at $40.00 and sold unframed.
Labels:
miniature paintings,
originals,
OSWOA,
small works,
Susan Sydney,
watercolour
Tuesday, January 3, 2012
ACEO - Repose 1
This is a scene we often see while out on the lake in the boat.
If you would like more information about ACEO please go to my post on 11 March 2010.
The ACEO shown here is an original watercolour painting using Artist quality Windsor & Newton paint on 300lb. Arches 100% rag, acid free watercolour paper. It is priced at $20.00 and sold unframed.
If you would like more information about ACEO please go to my post on 11 March 2010.
The ACEO shown here is an original watercolour painting using Artist quality Windsor & Newton paint on 300lb. Arches 100% rag, acid free watercolour paper. It is priced at $20.00 and sold unframed.
Monday, January 2, 2012
Buckhorn Artists' Group Blog- Show Updates
I have updated the Buckhorn Artists' Group blog with a listing of shows some of the various artists in the Group are exhibiting their work in during the month of January.
If you get a chance come out and visit them at one or all of the shows.
If you get a chance come out and visit them at one or all of the shows.
Sunday, January 1, 2012
Confirmed Shows for 2012 - January
This is a listing of confirmed shows that I will be exhibiting my artwork at this year. I will update the list as more shows are added.
Kawartha Artists’ Gallery, Peterborough, Ont.
KAGS
04-23 Dec & 02-12 Jan 12 Winter Celebration
Opening Reception 04 Dec 11 from 1-4pm.
15 Jan - 02 Feb 12 Miniatures Squared
Opening Reception 15 Jan 12 from 1-4pm.
05-23 Feb 12 Bringing in the Sunshine
Opening Reception 05 Feb 12 from 1-4pm.
15 Apr - 03 May 12 People and Portraits
Opening Reception 15 Apr 12 from 1-4pm.
25 May - 07 Jun 12 Figuratively Speaking
Opening Reception 25 May 12 from 1-4pm.
10-28 Jun 12 Unfolding
Opening Reception 10 Jun 12 from 1-4pm.
23 Sep - 11 Oct 12 Our Town
Opening Reception 23 Sep 12 from 1-4pm.
28 Oct – 15 Nov Outdoor Painters' Group Show
Opening Reception 28 Oct 12 from 1-4pm.
09-22 Dec 12 & 03-10 Jan 13 Christmas Show
Opening Reception 09 Dec 12 from 1-4pm.
St Matthews Church, Buckhorn, Ont
BuckhornArtistsGroup
19-21 May 24th Annual Among Friends Art Show
11-19 Aug 22nd Annual Shades of Summer Art Show
Fenelon Falls Fairgrounds, Fenelon Falls, Ont.
KawarthaArtsFestival
01-02 Sep Kawartha Arts Festival
Kawartha Artists’ Gallery, Peterborough, Ont.
KAGS
04-23 Dec & 02-12 Jan 12 Winter Celebration
Opening Reception 04 Dec 11 from 1-4pm.
15 Jan - 02 Feb 12 Miniatures Squared
Opening Reception 15 Jan 12 from 1-4pm.
05-23 Feb 12 Bringing in the Sunshine
Opening Reception 05 Feb 12 from 1-4pm.
15 Apr - 03 May 12 People and Portraits
Opening Reception 15 Apr 12 from 1-4pm.
25 May - 07 Jun 12 Figuratively Speaking
Opening Reception 25 May 12 from 1-4pm.
10-28 Jun 12 Unfolding
Opening Reception 10 Jun 12 from 1-4pm.
23 Sep - 11 Oct 12 Our Town
Opening Reception 23 Sep 12 from 1-4pm.
28 Oct – 15 Nov Outdoor Painters' Group Show
Opening Reception 28 Oct 12 from 1-4pm.
09-22 Dec 12 & 03-10 Jan 13 Christmas Show
Opening Reception 09 Dec 12 from 1-4pm.
St Matthews Church, Buckhorn, Ont
BuckhornArtistsGroup
19-21 May 24th Annual Among Friends Art Show
11-19 Aug 22nd Annual Shades of Summer Art Show
Fenelon Falls Fairgrounds, Fenelon Falls, Ont.
KawarthaArtsFestival
01-02 Sep Kawartha Arts Festival
Labels:
art displays,
art exhibitions,
art gallerys,
art shows,
Susan Sydney
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